Dogs rely on a lot of non verbal communication with each
other and us for a number of reasons. Eye contact is used by dogs as an
important form of communicating authority and hierarchy in the pack. Though
dogs rarely stare openly into each others eyes because confrontation is
something that most dogs wish to avoid at all costs, as direct contact can
signify both rudeness and a challenge to authority.
A dominate dog will stare down an inferior dog in order
to assert its authority and position in the pack, whereas the submissive dog
will look away and expose its neck in order to avoid conflict and to show
subservience.
However, dogs may watch the eyes of their human owners or
stare at us in order to assess the signals that we give. They may also be
seeking attention or hoping to receive something good. A few other reasons that dogs look at us are:
our ability to provide food
clues about our emotional state
assessing our intentions
information about what is happening in their world
It is believed
that the dog’s unique ability to look into our eyes and hold our gaze was one
of the first steps in domestication, and since dogs have been domesticated for
at least 10,000 years (and some scientists believe much longer, up to 100,000)
this ability has been selected and carried down the generations of dogs.
It is felt that dogs and people bond through eye contact
. … but now, scientists have found actual proof that the connections between
humans and their dogs have the same biochemical basis as the mother-child bond,
and it’s strengthened by the same thing: a loving gaze.
In fact, research in Budapest using eye-tracking
technology shows that dogs are as sensitive to their owner’s looks as small
children are with their parents. They recommend that owners increase their eye
contact with their puppies so that they can build a better relationship, and
getting the dog to maintain eye contact is now an important part of training.
However, looking into a dog’s eyes is not the same as
staring and most dogs can tell the difference between the two. Staring can be a
threat in dogs and in some other species. When someone stares at a dog,
maintaining eye contact when he or she has no right to do so, it can make an
already nervous dog hostile or scared.
If you encounter an unfamiliar dog try to avoid looking
directly into his/her eyes and instead look at ears or feet. Because dogs have
an excellent knowledge of body language, the dog will be watching you to
understand your intent, though you may not realise it.
Dogs are great companions and want to be loved. Since
dogs know that what we think will influence our behavior to them, they are
looking at us because they want to know how we feel.
A dogs sense of smell is probably more important than any other sense (except touch) and is one of the predominant senses for a dog, as a pup it used its scenting ability to locate its mother.
Although your dogs brain is much smaller than that of a
human, its sense of smell is estimated to be a hundred thousand times better.
As it develops your dog will literally learn to smell its
world and the passing of time. It can see the future by catching scent on the
air so knows what is to come and by smelling the ground can tell what has
passed.
With 220 million receptors in the dogs nose, scent is a
very powerful influence.
This immense sense not only provides memories that last a
lifetime, but will inform and forewarn the dog affecting its behaviour and
physiology.
The average dog can detect and identify smells that are
so dilute that even scientific instruments struggle to pick them up.
Your dog also has mobile nostrils that allow him to
determine the direction of the scent even if its a long way off giving him/her
the ability to scent prey. He can even pick up different scents in each
nostril.
Dogs pick up on peemail when out and about and this
provides them with much information as to the age, health and sexuality of
those who have passed through before, they are also able to discern where a
female is in her sexual cycle.
Dogs can also smell adrenaline and pheromones both in
humans and other dogs.
Isn’t that just amazing – so now you know why your dog
loves to smell anything and everything.
Hi my name is Katrina and I own Scamps & Champs in Cardiff.
Although I am based in Cardiff I also provide my cat/pet sitting service in Penarth, Sully and Barry.
I hold a Diploma in Canine Psychology and I have been fully trained in Canine CPR and first aid. I have shared my life and home with dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters, parakeets and tropical fish, but I have a particularly soft spot for older pets and rescue animals.
At Scamps & Champs Cardiff we provide pet sitting for cats, rabbits, parrots, puppies, a real wide range of animals.
This is beautiful Dottie, she loves to eat, explore, chase toy mice and settle in your lap for a snooze
Dottie
This is the fabulous Leo, master mouse catcher. This picture does not do him justice
Leo
I will always make sure the pets have enough food, give fresh water, clean litter trays/cages/hutches if required and give lots of fuss and attention.
I can come and do puppy visits if you want to get a new puppy but are out at work all day.
I am DBS checked, fully insured with Pet Business Insurance and have extensive references.
If you are looking for a professional, reliable pet/cat sitter in Cardiff and Barry then look no further.
Click here to book a Pet Sitter in Cardiff, Penarth, Sully & Barry. I look forward to meeting you and your pets.
Katrina, owner of Scamps & Champs Cardiff is a fully insured dog walker who will treat your dogs as if they were her own. Katrina holds a Diploma in Canine Psychology and has been fully trained in Canine CPR and first aid.
Katrina is based in Cardiff but provides her dog walking service in the following locations, cf3, cf5, cf10, cf11, cf14, cf15, cf23, cf24, cf62, cf63, cf64.
At Scamps & Champs Cardiff we know how difficult it can be finding the right dog walker. We offer a free initial meeting where Katrina will come out to meet you and your dogs and we can find out as much as possible about your dogs routine and behaviours, things they enjoy and things that worry them.
You can book online, pay online and all walks are GPS tracked for your peace of mind.
Scamps & Champs Cardiff will never “pack walk” your dog. If your dog enjoys playing with other dogs, we will carefully match to a dog/s with a similar temperament.
Our walks do not include travelling time which means your dog will get a full 30 minutes or 60 minutes and we will drop them off back at home happy and tired to await your return.
If you are looking for a professional,
reliable dog walker in Cardiff and Barry then look no further.
Scamps & Champs Cardiff also offer a range of services include dog walking, puppy visits, pet sitting, cat sitting, dog wedding chaperone service, dog home boarding.
For more information contact Katrina on 0333 200 5827 or email cardiff@scampsandchamps.co.uk
Chocolate is the product of dried and fermented seeds of the Cacao tree (Theobroma Cacao) and the active ingredient in chocolate is Theobromine.
Chocolate and cocoa products including the mulch made
from the seed shells and used in gardening are poisonous to dogs even causing
death if the amount ingested is large enough, though it also depends on the
type of chocolate and the amount the dog has actually ingested and also the
size of the dog compared to the amount that it has eaten.
The key toxic component chemical in the chocolate that
harms the dog is called theobromine,
which is only produced in chocolate . Humans can metabolise theobromine
quickly as the half life of the chemical is only 2-3 hours for humans who then
excrete it from the body, but for dogs it is a much slower process with the
half life of the chemical taking up to 18hours
which can cause a build up in the liver as it metabolises prior to
excretion in the urine.Theobromine is known to affect the central nervous
system, the cardiovascular system and the respiratory system.
Dark chocolate and cocoa products contain the most theobromine
whereas milk or white chocolate contain the least. Bitter dark chocolate used
for cooking also contains very high levels and even a vey small amount can be
enough to poison even a very large dog, though the lethal dose is roughly
between 250mg and 500mg per kilo of the dogs body weight.
However, a dog that eats just a small amount of milk chocolate may still be affected and may develop an upset stomach with diarrhoea and vomiting, it is always wise to seek medical advice however small the amount and however big the dog.
A dog that eats a whole box of chocolates or a large
amount of very dark chocolate will require emergency treatment as they may
suffer dangerous effects that lead to death.
The onset of the poisoning may be preceded by severe
hyperactivity, muscle tremors and an irregular heartbeat, panting and increased
thirst, during this time the dog may develop internal bleeding, increased heart
rate and finally a heart attack. The
signs of chocolate poisoning may not show until 2-24 hours after ingestion and
even for a small amount of chocolate ingestion you will need to watch the dog
for at least 72hours afterwards.
If you know that your dog has eaten chocolate then you
should try to induce the dog to vomit as well as getting advice from the
vet. If the dog’s life is in danger then
the vet may put the dog on intravenous fluids to flush the stomach contents and
may also give charcoal based medication to absorb the poisonous chemical before
too much harm is caused.
Having a new puppy, particularly if
you’re a first time fur parent is so exciting. Your puppy is the cutest little
fluff ball on the planet and there is nothing you wouldn’t do, and nothing you
wouldn’t buy for your little bundle of delight. And boy are there plenty of
things to buy; the best fluffy beds, top of the range food and drink bowls,
toys, chews, some people even like to dress their pets in little outfits, and
now this little bundle of fluff has stolen your heart It’s all fun fun fun –
isn’t it?
Or do you feel that it might have
been easier if your puppy had come with a warning “will chew your shoes, rip
your belongings, wail loudly all night long or screech for hours every time you
go out”.
And why did no one tell you that you
would soon be wondering how something so small could make so much noise and
mess, behave like its being murdered each time you try to take it out to
toilet, and then produce enough poo and pee to sink a battleship when after
what felt like hours in the freezing cold, defeated and deflated, you bring it
back indoors, or how it can wriggle backwards at the speed of light when you
try to attach collar and leash to go for a walk.
And what happened to all those who
promised to always walk the pup for ever and ever if only you would let them
have him/her? The family who said they would take turns to feed and walk
the pup?
Well you are not alone ….
I remember when one of my pup first
arrived, I soon learned that initial excitement can quickly give way to
frustration, I can clearly remember being so delighted that my boy Beau had
learned to get upstairs all by himself that I squealed with delight – I
squealed again some days later when I went upstairs and found the huge
brown pool of diarrhoea that spread all across my beautiful mint green carpet.
And believe me when I tell you that
there is not an alarm clock on the planet that gets you out of bed faster than
being woken from a deep sleep by the sound of a retching puppy, only for you to
step into a pool of slimy frothy vomit – how did all of that come out of
something so small?
So whether its your first or your
fifth, each pup is as different and individual as we are, so the chances are
that the new puppy journey you have just embarked upon will have much to teach
you.
To begin with think of your pup as a
toddler who has no concept of right or wrong and you are the parent who has to
teach them everything from potty training, walking on a leash, socialising and
being well mannered – seems daunting at first doesn’t it?
As puppyhood is the most important
time for learning, I’d like to share a few tips that helped me with my pups and
may help you in those first few months together.
IN GENERAL
Always try to have a calm but
assertive approach when you’re when dealing with your pup, the aim is to
provide positive, gentle and reward based training. Don’t get upset if
your pup doesn’t “get it” straight away or if he/she does something
wrong or has a little accident now and then.
Though there will be times when you
may feel convinced that he/she is doing it deliberately to get on your nerves –
believe me they really don’t know any better at this stage so be patient
as it takes time.
A crate can be an invaluable tool
particularly when potty training as it provides your pup with a secure area
whilst you are busy. If your pup is reluctant to go in at first,
persuade him/her by using a Kong with some natural peanut butter, (but
make sure it doesn’t contain xylitol as this is a sweetener that is dangerous
to dogs). Always praise your pup when it gets something right or does something
you asked it to do. Don’t, however, leave your pup in the crate for too long as
this can cause other issues.
A baby gate will also help to keep
your pup out of areas that may be dangerous or simply “off limits”, this will teach
your pup what areas he/she is allowed to go into or not, and will help provide
a safe area for your pup to play in.
If your pup cries all night – I
won’t lie, I never had this problem because I always took my babies upstairs
and they slept in my room until they decided to go elsewhere to sleep. I
know this is not an option for everyone and I’ve heard of lots of different
things to try, old fashioned alarm clocks have a soothing ticking sound that is
said to help the puppy sleep. An old piece of your unwashed
clothing to snuggle into or a teddy bear to cuddle with – it really is all
trial and error. Your pup will sleep when it feels safe, warm and
protected – its for you to find that place so that you can all get some sleep.
Teach your pup the command “eyes on
me” this is a great way of getting your dogs attention during training
especially if they are easily distracted by other things around them in the big
outside world.
Also teaching your pup to “go to
your mat” is a good way to prevent them from running and barking in a frenzy
every time someone arrives at the front door and will save you from receiving
those embarrassing postcards from the post office telling you that your dogs
behaviour is upsetting the postman – yes I’ve had them!
Do avoid giving in to things now
that will lead to problem behaviour later on, no matter how cute that little
face is. For example don’t let your pup jump up at people when they visit.
Though this seems so cute now, once the dog is grown it may not be so acceptable
– I have lost count of the times I have been knocked into someones flower bed
by an overexcited dog running out and jumping up to greet me.
Always make sure to distract your
dog with something acceptable like a toy or a treat when you want to change
their behaviour instead of just telling them off when they get it wrong.
Enrolling into a puppy training or
obedience group is a great idea, but make sure to attend a proper class
where all the other dogs are up to date with their vaccinations. It’s
never too early to start training as it provides both mental and physical
stimulation. It will not only help them to learn some manners but also help
them to socialise with other dogs and help prevent difficult or dangerous
situations from developing in the future.
Training with your pup will help you
develop a firm bond and provide you with a better understanding of what
motivates him/her so that you can continue training accordingly. Puppies
just want to please you so this is a golden opportunity for you to show them
how. Always be consistent and always be gentle, there is no place or excuse for
any negative behaviour towards your pup. They will take time to learn,
they will make mistakes, and if they are anything like my boy Beau, they will
embarrass you further by cocking a leg and peeing over the pup next to them.
CHEWING
I get asked a lot about unwanted
behaviours such as chewing and barking, and I’ve had a lot of personal
experience of both behaviours with my girl Lola. In just one
day she chewed my handbag to pieces, chewed the door frame and ate my husband’s
library book so I know how frustrating it can be.
There are lots of reasons why dogs
chew but if a pup or very young dog is into this, its a strong indication that
they are teething.
A good way of coping with this is to
use a Kong or something similar and place some frozen peanut butter or other
goodie into it and give that to the dog or simply buy toys and ropes of various
textures so that your pup can chew on these – a word of warning, don’t buy shoe
shaped chews, you know where it will lead to.
If it has happened and you are quick
enough to intercept your pup as it makes off with one of your best shoes, then
simply offer an alternative or a treat, once the pup drops the shoe say “good
boy/girl” in a very excited voice (or at least a relieved voice), your pup will
soon get the idea but you must be consistent.
If your handbag or best shoe does
fall casualty to your babies toofy pegs then you will have to write it off and
learn your lesson that nothing is off limits to a teething pup unless you make
it so.
On the subject of teeth, a good habit to start at this stage is that of cleaning your babies teeth, do ask your vet for advice and use the smallest brush (not a human toothbrush) to begin with. Tooth decay can cause a lot of medical problems particularly if you have a pup with a heart murmur as the decaying matter can make its way into the bloodstream and cause serious issues . A yearly check up saves a lot of problems including a massive vet bill for tooth removal.
BARKING
Is there anything worse than a dog
that won’t stop barking? Well yes I can think of a few, but constant barking
can drive the most loving pet owner up the wall.
Again, there are any number of
reasons why dogs bark and not all of them are negative, remember this is also
the sound of the dogs own language. It’s the way the dog communicates
with others of its species or tells you when it wants something. It can
also be an indication of fear, frustration or excitement as well as aggression
or warning.
How to deal with it?
Pups usually bark because they want
something, are excited or simply because they have just found their voice and
quite like the sound of it – after all its new to them.
At this point its a good idea to try
some distraction tactics by engaging the pup with something else or by taking
them for a short walk provided they are fully inoculated.
If the pup is barking because
someone or something new has arrived in front of them, it could be an
indication of fear. The pup will look to you for security so stay calm and tell
them that’s its okay and provide them with comfort.
Always seek to reassure the pup
until you can ascertain what has caused the barking – remember how you deal
with this now sets the scene for the future. Never ever shout at the pup
because this will only make matters worse and could create issues that prove
difficult to deal with in the future.
Socialisation and training are key here, introduce your pup to many different situations, places and people as possible. People with glasses, hats, beards, tall people, short people and loud people, children and other dogs – though always supervise the latter two carefully and never leave a tiny pup alone with small children until they have learned to handle the pup with respect and gentleness. Always have treats on hand to reward your pup in new circumstances and never be afraid to tell other dog owners to back off if their dog gets a bit rough or overexcited with your pup.
How to stop your dog barking
POTTY TRAINING
This is a biggie for a lot of new
puppy owners, here are a few tips that helped me stay sane not only with pups
but also with adult rescue dogs i’ve adopted who weren’t potty trained.
Firstly, be prepared for accidents,
your pup will get it wrong and so will you.
The pup is not out to make your life
a misery but do try to see things from their point of view some of the time –
would you really like to go pee pee in the freezing cold dark night or when its
lashing down with rain? You will get stressed, the pup will get stressed
and the moment you step back indoors the pup will pee !!
Choose a particular area where you
want your pup to toilet and take the pup out on a regular basis, particularly
after meals and before bed time.
In the first few months, and if your
pup is small enough, carry it to the designated area so that it gets the
message that this is where you want it to toilet, reinforce this by saying
something like “wee wee” so that your pup associates the place and
the words with the action.
Use positive reinforcement, so that
each time your pup does a pee or poo say “good boy/girl” in an excited tone of
voice and provide a treat. The pup will soon learn that it will be
rewarded each time it goes to that place to pee or poo.
If your pup has an accident –
and it will – ignore this, clean it up and say nothing. Use a disinfectant that
removes the smell as well as cleans or your pup will keep going to toilet
there. Pets at Home have several good brands that will remove the odour and
disinfect the floor.
Never hit, shout or rub the pups
nose in the mess – this is abuse and serves no purpose other than to terrify
the pup and delay or prevent the training.
Remember it really is on you if your
pup keeps going to toilet in the house and you need to increase your pups trips
outside, never scold the pup for your mistakes.
If your pup is very slow to toilet
train or continually relapses, seek advice from your vet and get your pup
examined in case there is an underlying infection or problem.
In the meantime, you can get (human)
adult size disposable incontinence sheets from Amazon, that you can put down on
the floor – they saved my sanity during some difficult times with my rescue
dogs.
When out walking in public areas, always pick up after your dog, it is an offence not to do so and you can be fined.
MORE GENERAL INFORMATION
Puppies need lots of naps, its
essential for them to grow so don’t be surprised at how much they nap.
Exercise your pup, but not too much
too soon and only take them outside once they are fully inoculated, seek
guidance from your vet if you are unsure.
Initially avoid taking your little
pup into big shops or places where lots of other dogs go, parvovirus, other
diseases and parasites can last a long time in areas that are not properly cleaned
or where people have not picked up after their adult dogs.
Try to get your pup used to being
handled, particularly around their face, feet, legs etc as this will help the
pup cope with being handled on future visits to the vet and the groomer.
Always handle with care and gentleness and never allow children to “play”
with your pup – remember they are only babies .
Get your pup used to travelling by
car as soon as you can, this will help them with any travel sickness issues.
Ensure that everything your pup
needs, such as beds and feeding bowls are in low traffic or quieter areas of
the home so that they are not disturbed by lots of noise or people coming in
and out.
SEPARATION ANXIETY
Does your pup cry, whine or bark
excessively when you leave the room or the house for any length of time, or
destroy and chew things up when you are not there?
This could well be separation
anxiety.
Before your pup came to you it lived
with its mum and siblings and there was always someone to go to for comfort,
food or whatever.
Now this beautiful pup has left its
family behind and lives with you and your family, your pup doesn’t understand
everything in this strange new environment.
You can’t be with your pup all of
the time, you have to go out for whatever reason and the pup can’t always go
with you. Now for some pups this is no issue as they will use this time to
catch up on much needed sleep. However, for others this will become a time of
distress and worry that, if not addressed, can escalate to the point where the
young dog damages its home or itself.
Separation anxiety is a complex
situation that can require the advice and help of a suitably qualified person
and in extreme situations may never be fully resolved. Unfortunately,
many dogs who suffer from this often find themselves put up for adoption or
simply abandoned.
The treatment of separation anxiety
requires a consistent approach and can initially feel distressing.
You may need to start with placing
distance between you and the pup or young dog in order to reduce its dependancy
upon you.
By simply ignoring your pup just
prior to departure and again on return some cases can correct themselves
without further intervention.
However, some cases are more
difficult to deal with because the pup is very needy and its relationship with
you creates real distress when you are not there and the pup is left
alone.
In such cases you may need to lessen
the bond with the pup by cooling the overall relationship, stroking less or
getting someone else to feed or take on things like walking and visits to
the vet so that the pup gets used to other people in its life.
Crating the pup may help to a
certain extent but this should always be a short term solution.
Providing sufficient exercise
throughout the day coupled with obedience training and mock departures to help
desensitise or diffuse the situation may also help to calm the pup.
Providing an alternative stimulus such
as leaving the television on or providing an acceptable object to chew can also
help the pup to remain calm when you are out, if all else fails the dog
may require medical intervention, but that should always be a last resort.
Doggie day care in an environment
with a limited amount of other dogs is another way of dealing with long term
issues as the pup or young dog gets one to one attention but also has the
opportunity to enjoy the company and comfort of others – always ensure all the
dogs get on with each other before making this a permanent thing.
Large dog day care facilities should
be avoided until the pup is old enough to cope with it otherwise you could be
swapping one type of anxiety for another.
ONE LAST THING ..
The answer to most things is time,
love and patience by the bucket load so enjoy every minute of your adventure
with your pup.
WHERE WE COME IN
Scamps and Champs Cardiff provide a
whole range of individually tailored pet care services.
We can step in when you need to step out – providing support, company, feeding and cleaning, dog walking, puppy visits or visits to the vet and groomers – in fact anything your pup needs .
We can also provide day care for
your pup or young dog in carefully selected environments where they can
continue both their training and daily routine.
Here in Cardiff we are open seven
days a week and cover bank holidays so why not give us a call?
If you live in Wales you will know how stunning the
countryside and seaside is on the southern coast! We are therefore delighted to
announce that we are opening yet another brand new Scamps and Champs branch and
this time our premium pet care services are opening in Cardiff and Barry!
Katrina – Scamps and Champs Cardiff Branch Manager
I have had animals as part of my life since childhood, but I started to rescue cats and ex breeding dogs just over 18yrs ago. I currently have three rescue dogs, Lola and Pixie are the most precocious, stubborn and delightful Shih Tzu girls and Beau who is the most gentle Cavalier King Charles, over the years he has helped several rescue cats and dogs find their paws and learn the ropes of living in their forever home. I am both enthusiastic and passionate about all animals and their welfare. I have shared my life and home with dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters, parakeets and tropical fish, but I have a particularly soft spot for older pets and rescue animals.
I hold a Diploma in Canine Psychology and I’m simultaneously working towards my UK Rural Skills Certificate and Dog Whisperers Diploma. I also hope to complete a Diploma in Canine Myotherapy in the near future.
My background is in the Civil Service but I have always dreamt of realising my passion for working with animals and that is why after much research I am delighted to have joined Scamps and Champs offering a first class dog walking and pet care service.
Katrina’s experience and passion for animals is evident and
we are so pleased to welcome her to the Scamps and Champs family, it’s a
pleasure to have you on board! We are so excited to be offering our pet care
services in Cardiff and Barry!
Pleaseget in touchto discuss how Scamps and Champs Cardiffand Barry can help with your pet
care needs. Check
availability of our pet care
services; dog walking, dog home boarding, cat sitting, overnight cat sitting
and wedding chaperone service.