Smart. Lithe. Independent. These are the qualities we
associate with our cats. For the best part of the day, they can lounge under a
car or bramble bush – then suddenly they’re back in your lap, craning for a
neck rub!
They might be independent animals, but cats need affection just
like us – as well as some mental/physical stimuli at home.
To keep your kitty happy, we’ve dug around online, and found
a load of cool toys that are sure to give you paws for thought…
We’re kicking the list off with a prey simulator – the
Motion Toy from Petlinks, which sends a swish furry tail scurrying under a
plastic sheet. It’s meant to replicate the haphazard movements of a wild animal
your cat has set its sights on. Just slot the batteries in, set it on an
automated cycle, and let Felix pounce every which way until he catches the tail
end (he never will, but we won’t tell him that!).
Cats are very tenacious – they don’t tend to let go of
something when it grabs their attention. That’s why the KONG Kriss Kross ball
has made our roster: it blinks enticingly with LED lights and holds a cachet of
bells inside, so there’s an aural response to rolling it around the floor. Grip
points allow felines to grasp the sides when they’re done with a bat-and-chase
game, but that’ll take a while, as the Kriss Kross keeps claiming their
attention throughout the day.
It’s another tour de force from Petlinks, who’ve designed
this battery-powered contraption for the slap-happy kitty! The circular base
spins on the spot, holding a bobbing feather on a stick for their paws to swipe
and catch. Those feathers, by the way, are the real thing, appealing to your
cat’s hunting instincts. Replacement wands can be bought if they ever manage to
split it with a well-timed punch-up.
Home is a rollercoaster for the average feline, as the Sense
2.0 Play Circuit amply proves with its quick-fit, high-speed ball network. The
basic package promises over 100 variations on the shape of the track – a system
that shoots a small object from one end to the other, helped along by a poke or
two from a curious cat watching above. Again, the ball lights up, keeping the
main player entertained whilst you’re absent through the week.
Finally, we’re turning back to KONG once more – specifically
for an all-rounder toy that serves several purposes. Cow, kangaroo, giraffe and
leopard-print patterns are available for this plaything, but the crux is the
same. The tail is stuffed with catnip whilst the main body stays plush, durable
and comforting for whatever the cat wants to do – stalk, play, cuddle or swing
the Kickeroo around, depending on the mood of the moment!
These will help to keep your cats entertained during this difficult
period.
With Valentines
Day quickly approaching Scamps and Champs Bristol would like to take this
opportunity to provide some information around the safety of some indoor
flowers. This is just a snapshot of a 5 flowers that are known to be either
safe or toxic to pets. Please contact your vet for advice or treatment
immediately if you think your pet is unwell and showing a reaction to a plant
or flower. Your pet may also have a sensitivity or an allergy to a plant so
it’s important to always be vigilant and seek expert health if you are ever
worried about the health of your pet.
Five flowers that are dangerous for
our pets 🐾
Daffodil: All parts of the daffodil are
harmful and even drinking the water from a vase of cut daffodils is potentially
hazardous. A small bite from a daffodil bulb can kill a small animal
Iris and
gladioli: The
bulb is the most dangerous as it contains a higher concentration of chemicals
but all parts of these are toxic
Tulip: All parts of the plant can be
toxic in large quantities, but the bulb is the most toxic
Lily of the
valley: Lily
of the valley flowers and leaves are very poisonous to dogs and cats as they
contain a toxin that can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, heart problems, fits and
collapsing
Lilies: Including Tiger, Easter,
Stargazer and Arum, are potentially poisonous, especially to cats. Eating or
chewing the leaves, stems or flower heads can poison pets. Even the pollen can
be harmful, as cats may lick this off their fur after brushing against the
flower head. If you have a cat you will need to ensure any lilies are kept in a
place in the house that your cat cannot access. Not always that easy!
Five flowers that are safe for our pets 🐾
We are ok ladies, these are a few of our favourites that are
not harmful to pets 😊
Roses: mean love, desire and romance and ALL varieties are pet friendly!
Peruvian Lily: mean devotion and friendship and are the perfect substitution for toxic
lilies
Phalaenopsis Orchids: mean love and beauty and are safe for pets
Snapdragons: mean gracious lady and are non-toxic and a safe optionSunflowers: mean admiration and
loyalty and pose no harm to cats
Whether
it is a trip to the vets, to the local park, or further out of Bristol, at some
point most pet owners will need to take their pet with them in the car. So,
what do you need to think about before travelling with your pet in a car?
We are all
used to buckling up in the car after the law changed many years ago. Some of us
do remember the days before the law changed but it was a long time ago! Cars are
just as dangerous to pets and it is just as important that our dog or cat is
properly restrained whilst travelling in a vehicle to help keep both him and
you safe whilst travelling.
How can
we travel safely with our pet in the car?
There
are products available to restrain your pet in the car. These include:
Pet Harnesses
Pet Seatbelts
Crates and carriers
Dog guards – you must be aware that whilst using a dog guard
will help protect any passengers and the car driver, it won’t protect your pet.
Why do
we need to restrain a pet whilst driving? Well, there are many reasons which
include:
For the safety of your pet – using a pet seat belt or carrier
can prevent serious injury to your pet if you are involved in an accident. Generally,
pets are safer on the back seat as riding in the front passenger seat can be a
distraction. If you do harness your pet in the front seat check your car manufacturer’s
instructions about the airbag as you may need to disable it.
For the safety of the car driver and any passengers – if you
are involved in an accident a pet that is loose in the car could cause serious
injury.
To prevent an accident – a loose pet can cause distraction to
the driver which can cause an accident or could get in the way of the brake
pedal or steering wheel.
It is
the law – Rule 57 of The Highway Code states “When in a vehicle make sure dogs or other animals are
suitably restrained so they cannot distract you while you are driving or injure
you, or themselves, if you stop quickly”. If the Highway Code is not followed
then you could be considered to be driving without due care and attention. If
your pet distracts you causing an accident this could be considered as
dangerous driving.
To be covered by your car insurance policy – your car
insurance policy may require you to restrain your pet properly and you could
break the terms of your insurance if your pet is loose in the car. If you had
an accident due to a pet being loose in your car your insurance may be invalid
leaving you a huge bill to pay. Pet insurance may also be invalidated if they
are injured and need treatment.
What else should be considered before taking your pet on a
journey? Making the car travel as comfortable for your pet will not only help
your pet but also the rest of the family travelling together! Some pets have no
problems travelling in the car, but others hate it! What can you do to try and
make the journey more relaxed and comfortable for your pet?
Introduce your pet to travelling in the car from a young age
if possible – pets who are introduced to travelling in the car from a young age
are much more likely to be relaxed and happy during car trips. This is part of “socialisation”.
You can start with introducing them to a parked car and getting used to sitting
in it with you. Then start going on short trips and build up to longer trips.
Ending a trip with a treat or a walk can help make the experience as positive
as possible. Hopefully your pet will associate going in the car as “fun”!
Some pets get car sick so avoid feeding them just before a car
journey. If your pet gets car sick even on an empty tummy then you can talk to
your vet for advice about medication. Regular breaks may help if your pet does
suffer from car sickness.
On long journeys it is important to stop every couple of
hours to allow everyone in the car an opportunity to get out for a leg stretch,
a drink and toilet break. Some service stations have a dog walking area, or you
could stop at a dog friendly attraction or park to break the journey up.
Keep the car cool – pets can get very warm very quickly in a
car. Be aware of your pet’s temperature and open the window or use the air
conditioning to keep them cool. Sun blinds can prevent your pet being in direct
sunlight.
Never leave you pet in the car – cats and dogs are unable to
cool themselves down like humans. They can overheat VERY quickly if left in a
car which can lead to death in a very short time. Leaving the windows down or
parking in the shade does not do enough to keep your pet cool.
Don’t ever let your dog stick his head out of the window – he
could hit his head on something, at high speed, with awful consequences. He
could fall out of the window. He could distract other drivers.
Always get your pet out of the car on the pavement side of
the car, and never the roadside. This is for your safety as well as theirs. Training
your dog to wait in the car until you tell them it’s safe to exit is helpful as
it gives you time to get them safely on the lead, assess traffic or other
dangers and get them out safe and stress-free!
Scamps
and Champs Bristol provide a reliable pet taxi service. If you would like to
know more contact 0333 200 5827
Chocolate is the product of dried and fermented seeds of the Cacao tree (Theobroma Cacao) and the active ingredient in chocolate is Theobromine.
Chocolate and cocoa products including the mulch made
from the seed shells and used in gardening are poisonous to dogs even causing
death if the amount ingested is large enough, though it also depends on the
type of chocolate and the amount the dog has actually ingested and also the
size of the dog compared to the amount that it has eaten.
The key toxic component chemical in the chocolate that
harms the dog is called theobromine,
which is only produced in chocolate . Humans can metabolise theobromine
quickly as the half life of the chemical is only 2-3 hours for humans who then
excrete it from the body, but for dogs it is a much slower process with the
half life of the chemical taking up to 18hours
which can cause a build up in the liver as it metabolises prior to
excretion in the urine.Theobromine is known to affect the central nervous
system, the cardiovascular system and the respiratory system.
Dark chocolate and cocoa products contain the most theobromine
whereas milk or white chocolate contain the least. Bitter dark chocolate used
for cooking also contains very high levels and even a vey small amount can be
enough to poison even a very large dog, though the lethal dose is roughly
between 250mg and 500mg per kilo of the dogs body weight.
However, a dog that eats just a small amount of milk chocolate may still be affected and may develop an upset stomach with diarrhoea and vomiting, it is always wise to seek medical advice however small the amount and however big the dog.
A dog that eats a whole box of chocolates or a large
amount of very dark chocolate will require emergency treatment as they may
suffer dangerous effects that lead to death.
The onset of the poisoning may be preceded by severe
hyperactivity, muscle tremors and an irregular heartbeat, panting and increased
thirst, during this time the dog may develop internal bleeding, increased heart
rate and finally a heart attack. The
signs of chocolate poisoning may not show until 2-24 hours after ingestion and
even for a small amount of chocolate ingestion you will need to watch the dog
for at least 72hours afterwards.
If you know that your dog has eaten chocolate then you
should try to induce the dog to vomit as well as getting advice from the
vet. If the dog’s life is in danger then
the vet may put the dog on intravenous fluids to flush the stomach contents and
may also give charcoal based medication to absorb the poisonous chemical before
too much harm is caused.
The first thing
that we do after you sign up for our services or enquire about our services, is
come out to meet you and your pets at your home at a time that suits you.
You can take us
through your pets usual routine and talk us through the information you have
provided in your pet’s profile on our pet sitting software. This way we can always be sure that we are
providing pet care to your exact instructions.
You can show us
where the pet food is kept, pet bowls, water bottles, leads and harnesses,
favourite hiding places and anything else you think we might find useful.
We will be able to
answer any questions you may have about our services and show you around the
pet sitting software if required.
You can introduce
us to your pets and talk through any habits or behaviours that you think we
ought to know about and also any medications that need to be given.
We will bring our
folder and show you our company insurance, references, dog home boarding arrangers
licence and dbs checks.
You can update/add
additional information to your pets profile at any time, upload photographs of
your pets and also upload vaccination records.
If you are
interested in dog
walking services, we would then arrange for the dog walker who will be
walking your dog to pop round to meet you and collect a key so you can meet the
person who will be coming into your home.
We do have a team of dog walkers so we will always provide cover if your
regular dog walker is on holiday or off sick.
Contact Us
Interested in
finding out more about Scamps & Champs Dog Walking & Pet Care and how
we can help? Call us on 0333 200 5827 or contact us through our online
form on our website www.scampsandchamps.co.uk.
At
Scamps and
Champs South East London we are receiving more and more
enquiries from owners of dogs who are anxious, and who want to know whether we
have the knowledge and experience to care for their pet.
This
is an area of service that some of our pet carers have particular experience of
and they also have the patience to slowly build a trusting relationship with the
anxious dog. The support we can offer for these dogs has to be carefully
planned in close collaboration with the dog’s owner, and for the most anxious
dogs, we have to start slowly building the relationship some months before the owner
plans to leave the dog alone in our care.
Beautiful
Spanish Podenco, Rufus, is a great story showing how both owner, Clare and one
of Scamps and
Champs South East London’s pet carers, Klaudia, have worked brilliantly
together to build up Rufus’ confidence, with the ultimate aim of Clare being
able to leave Rufus whilst she goes out for whole days, either for work or for
other reasons.
Klaudia
started visiting Rufus in his home a few months ago. Visits about 1-2 times a
week were arranged when Clare was there. Klaudia started by just being in the
same room as Rufus and Clare, ensuring that she moved slowly and quietly around
him, as new people, loud noise and quick movements were very frightening to
him. Rufus loves a sausage and Klaudia began to win his confidence by slowly
feeding these to him. Although treats
don’t always work with Rufus, he gradually allowed Klaudia to stroke him and in
time would also stay in the room with Klaudia without Clare being there. Now, Clare explicitly tells Rufus she is
leaving the room or house and repeats Klaudia’s name to him. Last week, when Klaudia arrived, Rufus came
to meet her and wagged his tail and allowed her to stroke him immediately! It
is still a challenge for Rufus when Klaudia arrives and Clare isn’t there, but
he is gradually reducing his fears and they are now going to work on Klaudia
letting Rufus into the garden and getting him back into the house on her own.
Klaudia,
who is delighted that Rufus is accepting her, says the key to giving him confidence
is to be patient and relaxed and not to rush him. She knows Rufus’ triggers and
the signs of anxiety in him; no eye contact, jumping back, shaking and
freezing. Close collaboration and planning between owner and pet carer is key
and ensuring that you are gradually working towards key goals.
Ultimately
we hope to be able to offer dog walking services
to Clare for Rufus and to be able to pet sit in the house if Clare needs to go
away.
Rufus’
story is just one from several dogs we are slowly getting to know and love at Scamps and
Champs South East London.
Please contact us to find out more about how we can support you with
your anxious dog.
For
a detailed quotation, please contact
us for further information.
Scamps and
Champs South East London are members of the National
Association of Registered Pet Sitters and the Pet Industry Federation. Contact
Scamps & Champs via our online
form, to check availability and make a booking.
Having a new puppy, particularly if
you’re a first time fur parent is so exciting. Your puppy is the cutest little
fluff ball on the planet and there is nothing you wouldn’t do, and nothing you
wouldn’t buy for your little bundle of delight. And boy are there plenty of
things to buy; the best fluffy beds, top of the range food and drink bowls,
toys, chews, some people even like to dress their pets in little outfits, and
now this little bundle of fluff has stolen your heart It’s all fun fun fun –
isn’t it?
Or do you feel that it might have
been easier if your puppy had come with a warning “will chew your shoes, rip
your belongings, wail loudly all night long or screech for hours every time you
go out”.
And why did no one tell you that you
would soon be wondering how something so small could make so much noise and
mess, behave like its being murdered each time you try to take it out to
toilet, and then produce enough poo and pee to sink a battleship when after
what felt like hours in the freezing cold, defeated and deflated, you bring it
back indoors, or how it can wriggle backwards at the speed of light when you
try to attach collar and leash to go for a walk.
And what happened to all those who
promised to always walk the pup for ever and ever if only you would let them
have him/her? The family who said they would take turns to feed and walk
the pup?
Well you are not alone ….
I remember when one of my pup first
arrived, I soon learned that initial excitement can quickly give way to
frustration, I can clearly remember being so delighted that my boy Beau had
learned to get upstairs all by himself that I squealed with delight – I
squealed again some days later when I went upstairs and found the huge
brown pool of diarrhoea that spread all across my beautiful mint green carpet.
And believe me when I tell you that
there is not an alarm clock on the planet that gets you out of bed faster than
being woken from a deep sleep by the sound of a retching puppy, only for you to
step into a pool of slimy frothy vomit – how did all of that come out of
something so small?
So whether its your first or your
fifth, each pup is as different and individual as we are, so the chances are
that the new puppy journey you have just embarked upon will have much to teach
you.
To begin with think of your pup as a
toddler who has no concept of right or wrong and you are the parent who has to
teach them everything from potty training, walking on a leash, socialising and
being well mannered – seems daunting at first doesn’t it?
As puppyhood is the most important
time for learning, I’d like to share a few tips that helped me with my pups and
may help you in those first few months together.
IN GENERAL
Always try to have a calm but
assertive approach when you’re when dealing with your pup, the aim is to
provide positive, gentle and reward based training. Don’t get upset if
your pup doesn’t “get it” straight away or if he/she does something
wrong or has a little accident now and then.
Though there will be times when you
may feel convinced that he/she is doing it deliberately to get on your nerves –
believe me they really don’t know any better at this stage so be patient
as it takes time.
A crate can be an invaluable tool
particularly when potty training as it provides your pup with a secure area
whilst you are busy. If your pup is reluctant to go in at first,
persuade him/her by using a Kong with some natural peanut butter, (but
make sure it doesn’t contain xylitol as this is a sweetener that is dangerous
to dogs). Always praise your pup when it gets something right or does something
you asked it to do. Don’t, however, leave your pup in the crate for too long as
this can cause other issues.
A baby gate will also help to keep
your pup out of areas that may be dangerous or simply “off limits”, this will teach
your pup what areas he/she is allowed to go into or not, and will help provide
a safe area for your pup to play in.
If your pup cries all night – I
won’t lie, I never had this problem because I always took my babies upstairs
and they slept in my room until they decided to go elsewhere to sleep. I
know this is not an option for everyone and I’ve heard of lots of different
things to try, old fashioned alarm clocks have a soothing ticking sound that is
said to help the puppy sleep. An old piece of your unwashed
clothing to snuggle into or a teddy bear to cuddle with – it really is all
trial and error. Your pup will sleep when it feels safe, warm and
protected – its for you to find that place so that you can all get some sleep.
Teach your pup the command “eyes on
me” this is a great way of getting your dogs attention during training
especially if they are easily distracted by other things around them in the big
outside world.
Also teaching your pup to “go to
your mat” is a good way to prevent them from running and barking in a frenzy
every time someone arrives at the front door and will save you from receiving
those embarrassing postcards from the post office telling you that your dogs
behaviour is upsetting the postman – yes I’ve had them!
Do avoid giving in to things now
that will lead to problem behaviour later on, no matter how cute that little
face is. For example don’t let your pup jump up at people when they visit.
Though this seems so cute now, once the dog is grown it may not be so acceptable
– I have lost count of the times I have been knocked into someones flower bed
by an overexcited dog running out and jumping up to greet me.
Always make sure to distract your
dog with something acceptable like a toy or a treat when you want to change
their behaviour instead of just telling them off when they get it wrong.
Enrolling into a puppy training or
obedience group is a great idea, but make sure to attend a proper class
where all the other dogs are up to date with their vaccinations. It’s
never too early to start training as it provides both mental and physical
stimulation. It will not only help them to learn some manners but also help
them to socialise with other dogs and help prevent difficult or dangerous
situations from developing in the future.
Training with your pup will help you
develop a firm bond and provide you with a better understanding of what
motivates him/her so that you can continue training accordingly. Puppies
just want to please you so this is a golden opportunity for you to show them
how. Always be consistent and always be gentle, there is no place or excuse for
any negative behaviour towards your pup. They will take time to learn,
they will make mistakes, and if they are anything like my boy Beau, they will
embarrass you further by cocking a leg and peeing over the pup next to them.
CHEWING
I get asked a lot about unwanted
behaviours such as chewing and barking, and I’ve had a lot of personal
experience of both behaviours with my girl Lola. In just one
day she chewed my handbag to pieces, chewed the door frame and ate my husband’s
library book so I know how frustrating it can be.
There are lots of reasons why dogs
chew but if a pup or very young dog is into this, its a strong indication that
they are teething.
A good way of coping with this is to
use a Kong or something similar and place some frozen peanut butter or other
goodie into it and give that to the dog or simply buy toys and ropes of various
textures so that your pup can chew on these – a word of warning, don’t buy shoe
shaped chews, you know where it will lead to.
If it has happened and you are quick
enough to intercept your pup as it makes off with one of your best shoes, then
simply offer an alternative or a treat, once the pup drops the shoe say “good
boy/girl” in a very excited voice (or at least a relieved voice), your pup will
soon get the idea but you must be consistent.
If your handbag or best shoe does
fall casualty to your babies toofy pegs then you will have to write it off and
learn your lesson that nothing is off limits to a teething pup unless you make
it so.
On the subject of teeth, a good habit to start at this stage is that of cleaning your babies teeth, do ask your vet for advice and use the smallest brush (not a human toothbrush) to begin with. Tooth decay can cause a lot of medical problems particularly if you have a pup with a heart murmur as the decaying matter can make its way into the bloodstream and cause serious issues . A yearly check up saves a lot of problems including a massive vet bill for tooth removal.
BARKING
Is there anything worse than a dog
that won’t stop barking? Well yes I can think of a few, but constant barking
can drive the most loving pet owner up the wall.
Again, there are any number of
reasons why dogs bark and not all of them are negative, remember this is also
the sound of the dogs own language. It’s the way the dog communicates
with others of its species or tells you when it wants something. It can
also be an indication of fear, frustration or excitement as well as aggression
or warning.
How to deal with it?
Pups usually bark because they want
something, are excited or simply because they have just found their voice and
quite like the sound of it – after all its new to them.
At this point its a good idea to try
some distraction tactics by engaging the pup with something else or by taking
them for a short walk provided they are fully inoculated.
If the pup is barking because
someone or something new has arrived in front of them, it could be an
indication of fear. The pup will look to you for security so stay calm and tell
them that’s its okay and provide them with comfort.
Always seek to reassure the pup
until you can ascertain what has caused the barking – remember how you deal
with this now sets the scene for the future. Never ever shout at the pup
because this will only make matters worse and could create issues that prove
difficult to deal with in the future.
Socialisation and training are key here, introduce your pup to many different situations, places and people as possible. People with glasses, hats, beards, tall people, short people and loud people, children and other dogs – though always supervise the latter two carefully and never leave a tiny pup alone with small children until they have learned to handle the pup with respect and gentleness. Always have treats on hand to reward your pup in new circumstances and never be afraid to tell other dog owners to back off if their dog gets a bit rough or overexcited with your pup.
How to stop your dog barking
POTTY TRAINING
This is a biggie for a lot of new
puppy owners, here are a few tips that helped me stay sane not only with pups
but also with adult rescue dogs i’ve adopted who weren’t potty trained.
Firstly, be prepared for accidents,
your pup will get it wrong and so will you.
The pup is not out to make your life
a misery but do try to see things from their point of view some of the time –
would you really like to go pee pee in the freezing cold dark night or when its
lashing down with rain? You will get stressed, the pup will get stressed
and the moment you step back indoors the pup will pee !!
Choose a particular area where you
want your pup to toilet and take the pup out on a regular basis, particularly
after meals and before bed time.
In the first few months, and if your
pup is small enough, carry it to the designated area so that it gets the
message that this is where you want it to toilet, reinforce this by saying
something like “wee wee” so that your pup associates the place and
the words with the action.
Use positive reinforcement, so that
each time your pup does a pee or poo say “good boy/girl” in an excited tone of
voice and provide a treat. The pup will soon learn that it will be
rewarded each time it goes to that place to pee or poo.
If your pup has an accident –
and it will – ignore this, clean it up and say nothing. Use a disinfectant that
removes the smell as well as cleans or your pup will keep going to toilet
there. Pets at Home have several good brands that will remove the odour and
disinfect the floor.
Never hit, shout or rub the pups
nose in the mess – this is abuse and serves no purpose other than to terrify
the pup and delay or prevent the training.
Remember it really is on you if your
pup keeps going to toilet in the house and you need to increase your pups trips
outside, never scold the pup for your mistakes.
If your pup is very slow to toilet
train or continually relapses, seek advice from your vet and get your pup
examined in case there is an underlying infection or problem.
In the meantime, you can get (human)
adult size disposable incontinence sheets from Amazon, that you can put down on
the floor – they saved my sanity during some difficult times with my rescue
dogs.
When out walking in public areas, always pick up after your dog, it is an offence not to do so and you can be fined.
MORE GENERAL INFORMATION
Puppies need lots of naps, its
essential for them to grow so don’t be surprised at how much they nap.
Exercise your pup, but not too much
too soon and only take them outside once they are fully inoculated, seek
guidance from your vet if you are unsure.
Initially avoid taking your little
pup into big shops or places where lots of other dogs go, parvovirus, other
diseases and parasites can last a long time in areas that are not properly cleaned
or where people have not picked up after their adult dogs.
Try to get your pup used to being
handled, particularly around their face, feet, legs etc as this will help the
pup cope with being handled on future visits to the vet and the groomer.
Always handle with care and gentleness and never allow children to “play”
with your pup – remember they are only babies .
Get your pup used to travelling by
car as soon as you can, this will help them with any travel sickness issues.
Ensure that everything your pup
needs, such as beds and feeding bowls are in low traffic or quieter areas of
the home so that they are not disturbed by lots of noise or people coming in
and out.
SEPARATION ANXIETY
Does your pup cry, whine or bark
excessively when you leave the room or the house for any length of time, or
destroy and chew things up when you are not there?
This could well be separation
anxiety.
Before your pup came to you it lived
with its mum and siblings and there was always someone to go to for comfort,
food or whatever.
Now this beautiful pup has left its
family behind and lives with you and your family, your pup doesn’t understand
everything in this strange new environment.
You can’t be with your pup all of
the time, you have to go out for whatever reason and the pup can’t always go
with you. Now for some pups this is no issue as they will use this time to
catch up on much needed sleep. However, for others this will become a time of
distress and worry that, if not addressed, can escalate to the point where the
young dog damages its home or itself.
Separation anxiety is a complex
situation that can require the advice and help of a suitably qualified person
and in extreme situations may never be fully resolved. Unfortunately,
many dogs who suffer from this often find themselves put up for adoption or
simply abandoned.
The treatment of separation anxiety
requires a consistent approach and can initially feel distressing.
You may need to start with placing
distance between you and the pup or young dog in order to reduce its dependancy
upon you.
By simply ignoring your pup just
prior to departure and again on return some cases can correct themselves
without further intervention.
However, some cases are more
difficult to deal with because the pup is very needy and its relationship with
you creates real distress when you are not there and the pup is left
alone.
In such cases you may need to lessen
the bond with the pup by cooling the overall relationship, stroking less or
getting someone else to feed or take on things like walking and visits to
the vet so that the pup gets used to other people in its life.
Crating the pup may help to a
certain extent but this should always be a short term solution.
Providing sufficient exercise
throughout the day coupled with obedience training and mock departures to help
desensitise or diffuse the situation may also help to calm the pup.
Providing an alternative stimulus such
as leaving the television on or providing an acceptable object to chew can also
help the pup to remain calm when you are out, if all else fails the dog
may require medical intervention, but that should always be a last resort.
Doggie day care in an environment
with a limited amount of other dogs is another way of dealing with long term
issues as the pup or young dog gets one to one attention but also has the
opportunity to enjoy the company and comfort of others – always ensure all the
dogs get on with each other before making this a permanent thing.
Large dog day care facilities should
be avoided until the pup is old enough to cope with it otherwise you could be
swapping one type of anxiety for another.
ONE LAST THING ..
The answer to most things is time,
love and patience by the bucket load so enjoy every minute of your adventure
with your pup.
WHERE WE COME IN
Scamps and Champs Cardiff provide a
whole range of individually tailored pet care services.
We can step in when you need to step out – providing support, company, feeding and cleaning, dog walking, puppy visits or visits to the vet and groomers – in fact anything your pup needs .
We can also provide day care for
your pup or young dog in carefully selected environments where they can
continue both their training and daily routine.
Here in Cardiff we are open seven
days a week and cover bank holidays so why not give us a call?
Here are some tips from Scamps and Champs Bristol to keep
your dog safe when out walking during these winter months.
Ensure your dog wears a collar and ID tag when out and
about, that he is microchipped and that the chip details are up to date. This
is MOST important all year around.
Keep your doggy friend safe by ensuring he can be seen in
the dark by using a high visibility jacket and a flashing collar. Letting
yourself be seen in the dark is equally important so wear clothing that is
visible in the dark whenever possible. Also, think about your footwear to avoid
slipping and falling whilst out walking your dog.
Keep your dog warm. Short haired, young or older dogs may
benefit from a warm winter dog coat. Also, consider letting his hair grow
longer over the cold winter months.
Regularly check your dog’s leads, collars and harnesses for
wear and tear or damage. Check they are all working properly. Be aware that if
it is very cold it can be difficult to do up lead clips and attach them to
collars and harnesses. Check for rust as wet weather may make the metal clips
rust.
Keep anti-freeze out of reach of your dog. Anti-freeze is
tasty but is highly poisonous to a dog. Keep out of reach and mop up any spills
immediately.
When you get back from your dog walk it is important to wipe
your dog’s paws, legs and tummy. Grit and dampness can irritate his skin.
Ice can slice! Take care as stepping on ice when out walking
can cause cuts and bleeding on your dog’s paws and legs.
Don’t let your dog walk on frozen ponds as he may fall
through the ice into the water if the ice is not thick enough to take his
weight. It is hard not to go in after him if he falls through, but you must
never do this. Instead encourage him to swim back to you and call the emergency
services.
When walking in snow be mindful that this new walking
environment can be very exciting to your pup so consider keeping him on the
lead.
NEVER leave you best friend alone in a car. Never. Not in
cold or hot weather.
Consider changing your dog’s routine. If you are finding it
difficult to exercise your dog in the dark evenings after work, then get in
touch with Scamps and Champs Bristol who provide a professional dog walking
service. We can walk your dog at a time that you think is best for him. We can
vary the route, so your dog is entertained by experiencing new sights, sounds
and smells.
Knowing hоw
to сrаtе train уоur puppy effectively wіll hеlр tо resolve mаnу оf thе рrоblеmѕ
that can occur durіng thе grоwіng up рrосеѕѕ from рuрру to аdult dog. Crаtе
trаіnіng is роѕѕіblу thе most effective mеthоd оf toilet trаіnіng, аѕ wеll as
еnѕurіng that thе сrаtе is safe fоr your рuрру.
Stаrtіng
сrаtе training early wіll pay dividends bу rеmоvіng mаnу of thе рrоblеmѕ that
can аrіѕе in the futurе аnd іѕ bаѕеd on the fасt that a рuрру’ѕ natural
іnѕtіnсt іѕ nоt to ѕоіl whеrе it еаtѕ аnd ѕlеерѕ.
Althоugh
early сrаtе trаіnіng іѕ rесоmmеndеd, note that puppies less thаn twelve weeks
оld have very little blаddеr control, ѕо соnѕіdеr thіѕ. Puрріеѕ younger thаn
nіnе weeks hаvе even lеѕѕ and need thе tоіlеt mоrе frеԛuеntlу, ѕо it is nоt аdvіѕаblе tо сrаtе trаіn аt such аn
early аgе. Thе minimum recommended аgе fоr crate trаіnіng fоr the mаjоrіtу оf
puppies іѕ tеn weeks.
Sіnсе a
рuрру will carry out toilet functions soon after іt аwаkеnѕ frоm sleep or eats
a mеаl, a ѕсhеdulе саn be рlаnnеd around these реrіоdѕ. Bу dоіng thіѕ, the
trаіnіng саn bе organized mоrе еаѕіlу.
Bеfоrе you
crate train уоur рuрру, уоu ѕhоuld ensure that thе crate іѕ оf thе соrrесt
proportions fоr уоur рuрру.
7-Stерѕ Plаn As Tо Hоw You Саn Crate Trаіn Уоur
Рuрру
Crate
trаіnіng is an attempt to hоuѕеtrаіn your рuрру bу temporarily confining him іn
a сrаtе. Bесаuѕе реtѕ dо not lіkе tо urіnаtе оr dеfесаtе in the рlасе whеrе
thеу are rеѕtіng, thеу bеgіn tо dеvеlор bladder and bоwеl соntrоl. Thеn, thеу
аrе lеt outside tо urinate, and thе сусlе continues frоm thеrе. Here іѕ thе
7-Stер Prосеѕѕ you need to follow.
Intrоduсе Your Puppy tо the Crate
The only
wау tо crate trаіn your puppy is fіrѕt tо fаmіlіаrіzе your рuрру wіth thе
сrаtе. This саn bе dоnе bу putting a ѕоft blаnkеt inside. Thеn, ореn thе door
аnd begin еnсоurаgіng your рuрру tо enter. Yоu саn uѕе trеаtѕ tо lurе him
іnѕіdе. After hе hаѕ been іnѕіdе a few tіmеѕ, you саn gіvе hіm a dоg bone оr
toy to рlау with whіlе сlоѕіng thе dооr on the саgе fоr a ѕhоrt tіmе. Ensure the crate is a safe, warm, comfortable
space that your puppy will enjoy.
Start wіth Shоrt Pеrіоdѕ
Hаvіng bееn
introduced tо thе crate, іt’ѕ now time to bеgіn іnсrеаѕіng уоur dоg’ѕ tіmе іn
thе сrаtе. Bеgіn with ѕmаll periods of 15 mіnutеѕ and gradually іnсrеаѕе to 30
minutes аnd bеуоnd.
Prаіѕе and Rеwаrd Puрру
Whеn the
рuрру hаѕ bееn good аnd has not urinated іn thе сrаtе, рrаіѕе hіm аnd rеwаrd
hіm wіth a treat. Thіѕ роѕіtіvе
reinforcement wіll, оvеr tіmе, tеасh hіm whаt іѕ аnd whаt іѕ nоt ассерtаblе. He
wіll then bеgіn tо асt in thаt роѕіtіvе mаnnеr mоrе оftеn іn аn attempt to
receive уоur praise аnd, оf соurѕе, thе rеwаrdіng trеаtѕ. Yоu now wаnt to tаkе
nоtе of thаt tо hеlр уоu better рrеdісt when уоur dоg nееdѕ to urіnаtе.
Let Puрру Outѕіdе Onсе Pеr Hоur
Aftеr уоur
pooch hаѕ gotten mоrе comfortable wіth the сrаtе, еxtеnd hіѕ сrаtе time tо
оnе-hоur segments. After one hоur оf being іn thе сrаtе wіthоut urinating, take
уоur рuрру оutѕіdе fоr fоur tо fіvе minutes. If hе urіnаtеѕ оutѕіdе іn that
period, rеwаrd hіm with a treat аnd your praise. If уоur рuрру dоеѕ not urіnаtе
оutѕіdе іn those five mіnutеѕ, put him back іn thе crate until thе next time
you fееl hе has the nееd tо urinate.
Grаduаllу Increase Time
Aѕ уоur
рuрру bеgіnѕ tо gаіn соmfоrtаbіlіtу wіth the сrаtе, уоu can еxtеnd hіѕ tіmе in
the cage. But, уоu wіll ѕtіll wаnt to lеt him оutѕіdе оnсе реr hour when
роѕѕіblе.
Overnight
If уоu аrе
in nееd for your рuрру tо ѕlеер in the crate overnight, уоu wіll want tо do a
few thіngѕ. First, рlасе thе сrаtе іn your rооm. Then, assuming hе іѕ already
ассuѕtоmеd tо thе сrаtе, еnсоurаgе уоur puppy to gо іnѕіdе. Aftеr a fеw nіghtѕ
оf hіm ѕlееріng іn thе сrаtе іn your room, уоu саn begin placing the crate in
оthеr rооmѕ whеrе you mіght оthеrwіѕе рrеfеr.
Praise аnd Reward Puрру
Yеѕ, here
іt іѕ again. Prаіѕе and rеwаrd your рuрру. Yоur рuрру gеnuіnеlу wаntѕ to please
уоu as hе dеѕіrеѕ уоur praise, attention, аnd treats. Your consistent роѕіtіvе
rеіnfоrсеmеnt of gооd bеhаvіоr when hоuѕеtrаіnіng will еnсоurаgе еvеn mоrе
роѕіtіvе bеhаvіоr.
Nоw уоu аrе rеаdу tо tасklе the сrаtе training рrосеѕѕ.
If you need any help with puppy visits while you are out at work, then don’t hesitate to contact us on 0333 200 5827 or email info@scampsandchamps.co.uk. We can visit your puppy, feed them, let them out into the garden, clean up any accidents and then have some play/cuddle/training time.
The incessant volleys of yips, woofs and whines of dogs when
left alone can be a big problem for any dog owner and even the neighbours,
except if you live in a detached house in the countryside. All dogs bark as way
to communicate with their owners but a dog that barks continuously can cause so
much trouble. To get your dog to stop barking when left alone, you have to
first discover what triggers the reaction so you can address the situation
effectively.
Here are some common
reasons dogs bark:
Genetics
Attention
seeking/demand
Alarm
Territorial
Frustration
Boredom
Fear
Play
barking
Separation
distress
Now that we’ve identified the factors that could be causing
your dog to be especially vocal when left alone, here are some to tips to get
them to stop.
1. Mask the sounds
Generally, most dogs bark when startled as a reaction to
sounds they’re hearing. The solution here is to control the environment so you
can limit their exposure to things that get their attention, and a good way to
do that is to mask the noise with other sounds. For example, you could use a
fan, a radio, a t.v. or a white noise machine to help your canine relax and
lower their stress levels.
If you live in an apartment and share walls with others,
covering up the sound of what’s going on outside can help keep your dog calm
which in turns prevents frequent barking.
2. Use sight barriers
Another way to solve your dog’s barking problems via
environmental management is to block your pooch’s sight-line to potential
barking triggers. This solution is ideal for dogs that are
territorial/alarm/defence barkers as it aids to prevent visual stimulation
which can trigger your dog.
For outdoors, you can cut off visual access by using private
fencing or privacy hedges in the garden.
If your dog stays indoors, you
can leave the curtains closed or close the blinds. Alternatively, you can use
place removable plastic films which allows light in but make the windows
opaque. Be sure to place the window film a few inches above your dog’s line of
sight to reduce the chances of visual stimulation.
3. Use treats and toys
As you leave the house, give your dog a chew-toy that has
your scent on it to keep him busy. This can help distract your pooch as you
leave and also keep him calm since the toy has your scent on it. The toy could
be a stuffed Kong toy or a safe chew bone stuffed with cheese spread or peanut
butter (without xylitol), but what counts is that the toys will keep their
mouth occupied with something aside from barking. Interactive treat toys are also a great way
of keeping their minds busy.
Similarly, give your dog treats as a way of rewarding him for
not barking. If he hears a noise from outside or doesn’t bark when you’re out
of sight, praise him and give him a treat. Rewarding your dog is an excellent
way of getting him to associate his refusal to react with something positive.
4. Create a quiet zone
A dog that suffers from separation anxiety shouldn’t be
allowed to move freely at home, so create a quiet zone for them in the house
where they can be when you aren’t at home. Ideally, the spot should be the
quietest part of the house like a back bedroom, utility room or space. You can
include a dog crate with comfortable bedding for them, and don’t forget to
leave some food and water for them too.
5. Uses exercises
Some dog breeds like retrievers, pointers, setters and
collies were originally used to work all day and they tend to become restless
if they’re under-exercised. They need to be kept busy or they might resort to
barking due to boredom. Experiment with different dog exercises to discover the
ones that come close to tiring your pooch out. A panting, utterly exhausted dog
will be too tired out to waste his remaining energy barking.
6. Hire A Dog Walker
Hire a dog walker if you are out at work all day to tire your dog out and to break up his day.
All in All
If you have applied all the tips above and still can’t seem to get your dog to stop barking, you might need extra help from a dog trainer/behaviourist. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.